With the Octo Tourbillon sapphire, Bulgari has broken away from the traditional codes to create a non-conformist, futuristic style (somehow reminiscent of some of the brand's daring Magsonic designs). The contrast of colors and materials, depth and 3D architecture of the movement are indeed striking. Shadow and light effects transform our perception. Its skeletonized movement is regulated by a tourbillon and comes in a sandblasted finish. Ten bridges radiates from its center serving as indexes. These bridges are enhanced with green luminescent material bars replica watches crafted from Superluminovaa and ITR2a (a hard composite material with carbon nanotubes particles – the acronym stands for Innovative, Technical, Revolutionary Resin). Hovering above the movement, the openworked arrow-shaped black hands with luminescent tip seem to be suspended in mid-air.
On the wrist, the first thing you'll notice is how well finished and how finely faceted this watch is. No matter which angle you glance at it from, you will get a reflection back. Whether it's a high-polished slope of an index, or a flaked side of the Zenith star, there's always some play happening with the light around you. The polishing work on the watch and bracelet is par excellence – and it continues to the case, where we have satin polishing to the top of the lugs, and to the centre link of the integrated bracelet.
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Allow me to tell you a little bit more about the watch itself. This 1972 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6265 is from a very interesting period in Daytona history. This was the beginning of the end of the hand-winding Daytona featuring the Valjoux 727 movement. This last run went on until 1988 when the 6265 was replaced by the 40mm El Primero Daytona. This particular example, dated to 1972, is, therefore, one of the early models from this last run. Another interesting detail is the lack of Daytona text on the dial. This shows that no label is needed. The watch, with its signature looks, could hardly be mistaken for anything else.
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Bell & Ross BRV2-94 Racing Bird Chronograph, limited to 999 pieces, ?$7400
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The steel case for the new Aquaracer has been enhanced with brushed finishing on the top and sides of the case, alternated with polished chamfers. The edge for the bezel is also polished to set it off against the case. The dial for each new Aquaracer has been updated too, yet still has the horizontal pattern on the dial that is a trademark for the collection. While previously using faceted rectangular hour markers, TAG Heuer has changed them to octagonal applied markers filled with Super-LumiNova. The shape is reminiscent of the hour markers on the 2004 TAG Heuer 2000 Aquaracer, albeit those were actually round.
As you can read in Tomas’ article, Seiko further increased the accuracy during the seventies leading to even more spectacular results. But when it comes to the combination of accuracy, design, and a unique dial, the 3883-7000 is unmatched. It’s not just the texture and the color that make this dial incredible. Just look at all the applied indexes for every single minute. The day and date indication stands out without interfering with the magic of the dial. The design and finishing of the 37mm steel case were developed according to Taro Tanaka’s Grammar of Design rules, fake air king leading to sharp lines and an absolutely stunning finish. The crown was deliberately small and sunken away in the case in the pictures, it is out. On top of that, the original bracelets were absolutely stunning, made to hug the wrist. Seiko did not kid around with this Seiko Superior line.
Launched in the gold Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary and a couple of months later in the Steel Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, this new calibre, dubbed 3861, includes all the modern technologies that the brand developed over the past 10 years. It has also been used in the recent Snoopy watch. However, it also remains visually close to the old movement, it is still hand-wound, it still has its cam mechanism to actuate the chronograph and the clutch is still horizontal. In short, it retains the best of the old engine and incorporates the best of Omega’s watchmaking expertise.